The Jewel of the Caribbean
A UNESCO walled city on the Caribbean Sea — colonial, colorful, and completely intoxicating.
Cartagena operates on a different clock. The Caribbean heat (always around 88°F, always humid) enforces a rhythm: early mornings, a siesta between 1–3pm, evenings that begin when the temperature drops slightly and the city’s balconied streets glow amber. It’s a rhythm that’s hard to resist and harder to leave.
The Old City — Cartagena’s UNESCO-listed centro histórico — is one of the best-preserved colonial cities in the Americas. Thick stone walls built in the 16th century to protect Spanish gold still ring the city center. Inside: bougainvillea-draped mansions in every color, churches that took centuries to build, and plazas where people actually use the benches. The neighborhood of Getsemaní — once the city’s poor quarter, now its street-art capital — is where the energy lives.
For expats, Cartagena is the lifestyle choice over the practical one. It’s slightly more expensive than Medellín (the tourist premium is real), the heat is relentless, and Spanish is more essential here than in El Poblado. But the trade-off is Caribbean beaches within 30 minutes, one of the most beautiful cities in the hemisphere, and a community of expats and locals who’ve chosen beauty over convenience.
Old Walled City & Getsemaní, Cartagena de Indias — Photos via Unsplash
Start before the sun is fully up. The walled city at 6am is yours.
The city walls (Murallas) at dawn are extraordinary. Walk the full circuit — 3.5km around the old city — as the Caribbean catches the first light. Pelicans fly below you. Fishermen head out. The city hasn’t woken yet.
Breakfast at a corner spot in Getsemaní — the neighborhood that borders the old city. Order a costeño breakfast: egg, bollo, ají. Walk the murals — among the best street art in Colombia. Visit the Iglesia de la Trinidad.
After lunch, it’s too hot to do much. Either take a taxi to Bocagrande for a few hours on the beach and a swim, or find a pool bar inside the walls and recover in the shade. This is mandatory Caribbean protocol.
The sunset bar on top of the walls is touristy, yes. It’s also extraordinary. Sundowner on the bastions with the Caribbean turning orange below you. Dinner in Getsemaní afterward — try Demente (pizza, wood-fired, cult following) or La Cocina de Pepina for traditional costeño food.
With a week, you can move beyond the postcard and into the real Caribbean.
Castillo San Felipe, Bocagrande & Islas del Rosario — Photos via Unsplash
Walk every street inside the walls. Get lost. Find a courtyard hotel with a fountain. Climb the Torre del Reloj. See how it all fits together.
The Rosario Islands are 45 minutes by lancha from the city dock. Coral reefs, turquoise shallows, fish you can snorkel with. Take a private or group boat — book the evening before. Full-day trip, pack light.
The most beautiful beach accessible by day trip from Cartagena. Take the public boat from La Bodeguita dock (90 min each way, ~$15 round trip). Arrive early for a hammock spot. Yes, there will be vendors. No, you cannot escape them. Yes, it’s still worth it.
Spend a full day in Getsemaní. Take a street art tour in the morning (ask your hotel or hostel). Afternoon: the Plaza de la Trinidad, locals playing dominoes, children on bikes. This is the real Cartagena.
Hire a driver to the Baru Peninsula — the island connected by road to the south of the city. Beaches less crowded than Playa Blanca, incredible seafood, and the sensation of having found something off the map.
For those who want magical realism made physical: Mompox, 4 hours from Cartagena, is the town that inspired Gabriel García Márquez. Cobblestone streets, river mist, colonial houses — and almost no tourists. Overnight strongly recommended.
The way to end a Cartagena week. Hire a chiva boat or catamaran for a sunset sail around the bay. Live music, aguardiente, the city glowing from the water. Colombia at its most cinematic.
Caribbean living has its own logic. Here’s how to get in rhythm.
Old City Centro: most beautiful, touristy, $800–$1,500/mo. Getsemaní: local, artsy, cheaper, noisier, $500–$900/mo. Bocagrande: beachfront condo living, modern, $700–$1,200/mo. Manga: quieter residential island, $500–$800/mo.
It’s 88°F and humid year-round. The city shuts down between 1–3pm. Embrace air conditioning, ceiling fans, and the siesta. Cotahedral housing has thick stone walls that stay cooler. Light linen clothing. Cold showers become a pleasure.
Cartagena is small. After 6 months, you’ll want regular escapes. Santa Marta (4hrs), Medellín (flight: 45min, $40–80), the Coffee Region, Barranquilla for Carnival. Build a weekend routine early.
Tight-knit and welcoming. The Facebook group ‘Expats in Cartagena’ is active. Most expat social life centres around the Old City bars (Bar del Cielo, Demente, Alma) and beach club days.
Clínica Boca Grande and Clínica Medihelp are the best. English-speaking doctors are available. A specialist visit runs $25–60 without insurance.
Inside the walls: walk everywhere. Beyond: tuk-tuks (motocars) for short trips ($1–2), taxis, InDriver. The heat means you’ll rely on rides more than in Medellín.
Every Colombian city has its own character. Find your perfect match.